A fishing boat cruise along Worli coast and glimpse of "Narali Purnima/Holi Dahan " festival in Worli village of Mumbai .

Isthmus of " WORLI KOLIWADA" with the " Rajiv Gandhi Sethu( Worli - Bandra Sea link) " Bridge passing over Mahim Bay .

Having been employed on ships and sailing vessels from 1983 to 2006 as a "Marine Engineer" and having stayed in Prabhadevi sea facing  locality for 41 years realized that to date was totally ignorant of the fishing industry of Worli Koliwada village. Worli Village was one of the original fishing villages of Bombay before it became the Mega-city Bombay with a later change of name into Mumbai.

Early  morning in Worli village with Moon still in the sky.

             As a prolific "Letter-Writer" and a writer  commentator  much before the Internet era  was one of the "Citizen journalists" responsible for creating awareness of preserving the historic "Worli Fort".The Fort was renovated and is definitely one of the best preserved Colonial Forts within Mumbai City. Recently the World's premier English rock group "Cold Play"  put Worli village on the World entertainment map by filming a part of their song "Hymn for the weekend"  in Worli village.My house-keeper Sabina.Dias has been residing in Worli village since birth and her life has a story that could surprise the faint-hearted. Requested Sabina to arrange a fishing boat excursion  and she obliged .

"Worli Sea-link" bridge seen from Worli Village.

                                                                                             On Thursday(24-11-2016) woke up early akin to the common fisher-folk of Mumbai eager to board the fishing vessel at Worli village in Mumbai.House-keeper Sabina.Dias had finally managed to use her personal friendship among the local Koli fisher-folk of Worli village and secure me a boat ride on a local fishing vessel.At 0600 hrs we both walked the short distance  from my house in Old Prabhadevi road to  Janata Colony in Worli village .In the dark of dawn using a torch flashlight  she guided me  past a narrow gully(lane) where just a single person could walk through the pathway  to  the residence of fisherman Chetan..Shirgaonkar situated  in "Sri Sai Krupa Mandal" locality of Janata Colony. Tragically as Bombay's population increased so also has the slum proliferation in the city and Worli village. Worli village with its small communal colonies  was once a dominant East Indian Catholic fishing village along with other communities that gradually deteriorated into pockets of slums.The East Indian Catholics are the original local Bombay natives who were converted to Catholicism by the Portuguese colonizers and hence their mother tongue is Marathi language with many also having Marathi Hindu surnames.This is the brief history of the local Worli Koliwada Koli residents whose prime ancestral occupation was fishing.

Sri Sai Krupa Mandal" in  Janata Colony of Worli Village.

                                                       Observed the "Open-Air defecation" along the sea beach  littered with plastic waste and definitely the filthiest sea dump in Mumbai. Having visited 54 Country's to date and having  just returned in September from a "Shark Cage diving"  tour in Cape Town felt ashamed as a Indian and Mumbaikar on seeing one of the World's filthiest beaches a stone's throw away from one of Mumbai's plushest residential localities. Worli  is a replica of South Africa's "Soweto" in Johannesburg having its plush wealthy ,the  middle-class and slums within its jurisdiction.On Saturday(19-11-2016) the "Global Citizen Festival-2016" was held at the "BKC(Bandra Kurla Complex)" in Mumbai with a record audience of 80,000 fans and a plethora of stars and celebrities.

"WORLI VILLAGE BEACH" :- Filthiest in the World ?

The profits generated from this mega concert in which "Cold Play" were the star attraction has been pledged for up-liftment of sanitation and toilet facilities around the World and sincerely hope that toilets are built in close proximity to the fishing village beach of Worli in Mumbai."Cold Play" are you reading my blog !Finally young fisherman Shri Chetan.Shirgaonkar along with his young fishing assistant Pensu guided me towards the boat  about 75 meters from his house.Had to walk carefully through a mine field of plastic waste and human excreta with numerous men squatting along the beach for their daily toilet routines. Definitely not a sight for a woman tourist or a casual "Citizen reporter".

My "Towing Dingy" arriving at the Fisherman's beach.

                                                                                                                                                   I was put onto a small fibre glass dingy while Chetan and Pensu boarded a small  motorized  fibre glass boat akin to a ship's life boat.My small dinghy was attached by a rope to the motorized boat and after starting the main boat engines we headed towards sea  and  i was towed on a beautiful cloudy day towards Mumbai's premier landmark, "Rajiv Gandhi Setu Bridge(Worli-Bandra Sea link bridge)".A photographic essay of my observance as a passive participant in the daily   working life of  the average common Koli fishermen of Worli village in Mumbai.

Leaving the "Worli fishing village beach" early in the morning  for the day's fishing  expedition. A Selfie" on the Dingy being towed by the motorized boat.

Young Fishermen Shri Chetan.Shirgaonkar and Pensu on the motorized boat  "NAYAN SAGAR" checking my towing line.

Fiberglass "Nayan Sagar"  boats engine started and all set to venture to our first "Fishing Net Site " of the Day.

The Beautiful plush skyscrapers of Mumbai as viewed from the  canoe in which i was sitting and observing the beautiful Arabian sea and these two young fisherman on their normal day's work..

Heading towards "Rajiv Gandhi Setu Bridge(Bandra-Worli Sea Link)"

Looking into the distant sea away from the Mumbai Coastline.

Flotilla of fishing boats anchored in the Bay of Worli village in front of  the Sea-Link bridge.

"Rajiv Gandhi Setu Bridge(Bandra Worli Sea-Link)" as seen from below the bridge towards Bandra end.A "Rock breakwater" has been built  that encloses Worli fishing village Bay from the open Arabian sea to the South. Protects the bridge and hence fishing boats of Worli Village  have to do a detour to venture along the WORLI COAST.During the construction of  this bridge there was some opposition from the fishing community of Worli village.

Our  boat having crossed the sea-link bridge from Worli village side  is now travelling parallel towards the sea-link  towards  Worli Sea-face to renter the the inner coastline for checking the nets set overnight.

Our boat re-entering the sea-link bridge from the open Arabian sea into Worli Sea-Face side. The "WORLI FORT" dominates the skyline  on land from this angle under the bridge.

Under the Sea-Link bridge and a view of the bridge highway from the sea. Committing "SUICIDES" by jumping from the "Sea-Link" bridge  was not uncommon and hence a strict vigil along the entire bridge length is maintained by the law enforcement department. The most famous Mumbaikar to commit suicide by jumping from this bridge on 1st August 2012  was the pioneer  tourism entrepreneur Mr Lalit,Seth, the proprietor of the once most popular tour company in Mumbai known as "Raj Travels" ."Raj Travels" were pioneers of  mass "Package Tourism" that made Foreign travel affordable to "Middle-Class Indians" which was once the privilege of the wealthy  or those Indians  employed in the overseas transport business like Merchant Navy ships and the airlines. "Package Tours" is now a common feature among all travel agencies. .

Historic Worli Fort as viewed from the sea.

Observing Thursday Sunrise over Mumbai from the Western seafront of the city.The Mumbai Western seafront skyline with its towering skyscrapers is majestic.

Our first "FISH NET STOP" in the sea adjacent to Worli Fort coastline 

FISHING NET LOCATION N0 1 :- On hauling the "Nylon Fish Net" laid yesterday evening a few fish are entangled in the net. Numerous fish nets are strewn across the Worli coast by various fishermen and seems to be over-fished.Hence the fish catch all over the World is decreasing every year.

 Chetan.Shirgaonkar and his assistant  Pensu  hauling the net and checking for fish or crabs.  The Crab catch was quite good although they were small sized crabs

Fish catch is also "Seasonal" and this particular variety of fish was the common catch of the day.

"Selfie" from my "Canoe Boat" towed by the motorized fishing boat.The silent spectator  in the day of the life of the average working day of the  common fisher folk of  Worli village and the Mumbai coast.

Hauling the net and the fish entangled in the net.

Finally after overhauling the entire nylon net onto the boat and removing the entangled fish and small crabs then re-inserting the net back into the sea at the same location.

Sailing towards our next "Fishing Net " location outside the sea-link bridge.

FISH NET LOCATION  N0 2 :- Overhauling the net onto the boat at the location outside the Sea-Link bridge opposite the Worli Fort.

A view of the Arabian Sea from the West Coast of Mumbai.

A Naval helicopter in the sky.The coastal waters of Mumbai are regularly patrolled by Coast Guard vessels especially after the "26/11/2008 Terrorist" attack on the city.

Overhauling the net and entangled fish onto the noat in "Location N0 2".

"Fish Catch" in "Location N0 2".

Heading back to Worli Village after overhauling "Net N0 2" onto the Boat.They will return back in the evening to insert a net into the sea as well as overhaul "Net-1" for a fresh catch. A very labour intensive job with nature also playing a role at times especially during the Monsoon season .

View of the "Rajiv Gandhi Setu Bridge" with the landmark Taj Mahal Hotel  and skyscrapers of Bandra visible at the extreme end.Very scenic when seen from the sea.

"Gateway to Worli Fishing Village" :- The Rajiv Gandhi Setu Bridge(Bandra-Worli Sea-Link)".

On reaching the coastal sheltered bay of  "Worli Village" transferred myself from the canoe onto the main motorized fishing boat.The Canoe was parked in the sea  in close proximity to the Worli village beach..

Shri Chetan.Shirgaonkar ,the young fisherman who owns this mechanized small fibre glass trawler costing approximately Rs one lakh.The engine of the "Nayan Sagar"  is run on Diesel fuel and a average regular "Fishing net"  casting and overhauling  routine of approximately 3 hours sea-time hugging the coast consumes about 2 litres of diesel fuel.The Engine is only used for travelling to the site of the fishing net and switched off with paddles being used to control the small mechanized boat.

Fisherman Chetan's assistant the young boy Pensu sorting out the day's catch..A minimum of 2 fishermen in each of these small mechanized boats is the normal complement.

Our Boat approaching "PRABHADEVI BEACH" with one of the most luxurious Bungalows being the landmark of this beach. "BEACH HOUSE", the iconic bungalow and one of the oldest residential bungalows in Prabhadevi is visible from the sea.One of India's wealthiest Industrialist family lives  within walking distance of one of the World's filthiest beaches in Worli Village.This is the irony and greatness of Mumbai city where Mega-billionaires live in close proximity to Mega filth . Prabhadevi beach was once  as dirty as "Worli fishing village beach" with the entire beach littered with plastic waste and human excreta.In recent years there has been a revolutionary transformation in cleanliness of Prabhadevi and Dadar beaches and hope the same transformation happens on Worli village fishing beach.My residence "Vaibhav Apartments" is just walking distance from the plush "Beach House" bungalow of the Wadia family and hence i know the history of this locality. 41 years is a very long time in a locality.

Akin to a "SeaTaxi" finally dropped at Prabhadevi beach facing the aristocratic "Beach House Bungalow by fisherman  Shri Chetan.Shirgaonkar and his young assistant  Pensu.There are plans of having a "FERRY BUS SERVICE" along various points on Mumbai's coast and it could definitely decrease the road traffic congestion of the city.

Shri Chetan.Shirgaonkar and Pensu finally leaving the shore of Prabhadevi Beach to their home of "Worli Village beach" just about 500 meters adjacent to Prabhadevi beach.

Who is more photogenic ? A bizarre chance "Selfie" with Vaibhav Apartments building cat "Champa" on my way home from the fishing boat  with fresh caught fish."Champa" could smell the fish and was pestering me for the same.This stray cat owned by our building prowls the beautiful gardened  society complex as the only cat in the entire vicinity.

P.S Note:- In May 2022 building cat " Champa" was tragically partially run over by a car in the building and expired.I cherish this candid " SELFIE"  photograph of just a ordinary common stray cat.All " Car Owners" please check the undercarriage of your vehicle before starting your car or any 4 wheeler vehicle as it's common for stray cat's and dog's to rest under car's or trucks.

CLEVELAND BUNDER(WHARF) :-Worli Koliwada shaped like a Isthmus is located just beside the Worli Fort, at the northernmost tip of the original island city of Bombay. The Cleveland Jetty seen in this photo at maximum high tide on a rare "Full Blue Moon(Wednesday 30/8/2023) " day of Narali Purnima celebration. It is situated on the southernmost end of Worli Koliwada village, just beside a major drainage and sewage outfall water gate that dumps the liquid waste coming from Lower Parel and Worli areas of Mumbai.Standing on this sewage waste gate bridge have photographed this unique fishing wharf of Mumbai. Bharat Gothoskar, city-based historian has researched the fact that the jetty has been named after Henry Cleveland, a government solicitor of the 19th century, who owned several properties in Bombay, now Mumbai and the origin of this Jetty dates to the 19th century, soon after the Port Trust of India came into existence.

View of the "SEWAGE GATE"  from Cleveland Bunder(Wharf) at High Tide.The gate is closed having a road bridge over it for vehicular and pedestrian traffic. During Low Tide the Sewage gate is opened to release waste sewage from Lower Parel and Worli localities of Mumbai into Cleveland wharf waterway. Hence the jetty waterway is heavily polluted.

Deity being taken in a grand procession  procession to the temple on "Narali Purnima( Thursday 11/8/2022) " day.

"Narali Purnima" celebrations on Thursday(11/8/2022)

"Narali Purnima" celebrations on Thursday(11/8/2022)

"Narali Purnima" celebrations on Thursday(11/8/2022)

Shri Chintamani. Shivdikar, the folk
singer of Worli Koliwada village dressed
in "Koli Attire" for the occasion of 
"Narali Purnima".

After decades of living in Old Prabhadevi locality of Mumbai for the first time in my life in August 2022 got to see the grand celebration of Narali Purnima festival in Worli Koliwada village. On Thursday(11/8/2022) cycled from my house to Worli villlage in the evening and the sight that greeted me was indescribable . A glimpse of the contest of breaking of coconuts on the occasion of the Hindu Festival of Narali Purnima in Worli village .Came across Worli Village folk singer Mr Chintamani.Shivdikar who was decked in gold ornaments.All the ladies participating in the dancing processions were also fascinatingly dressed in.local Koli folk attire with immense gold jewelry.Visit unique Worli Koliwada Village situated in the heart of concrete jungle Mumbai at least once in your lifetime.Something different.The next year in 2023 on  Wednesday(30/8/2023) attended the annual celebration of " NARALI PURNIMA" at Worli Koliwada village .

This festival is celebrated in grand fashion and dedication by fisher community Hindus in the western coastal regions of India.

A full fledged orchestra band
for " Narali Purnima ".

Narali Purnima is the festival which is dedicated to Sea God Varun and according to the Hindu Calendar, it is observed on Purnima Tithi on the Full Moon day in the month of Shravana that's why it is known as Shravana Narali Purnima.Narali means coconut and Purnima means full moon day. Coconut is an important part of the puja as coconut is offered to Varun. Fisherfolk of Maharashtra offer prayers to the God and seek blessings of the Lord as it is believed that by doing so Lord Varun makes the sea and wind according to the fisherman and protects them from the unwanted incidents during sailing and fishing in the sea. Although not in the fishing business but having sailed the oceans on various ships as a "Marine Engineer" for 23 years i understand the unpredictability of nature and the high seas. This day also marks the end of Monsoon season and the beginning of the fishing season and hence people dance and sing on this auspicious day to celebrate this amazing festival.This band procession began from the " Hanuman Mandir" of Worli Koliwada village winding in a procession through the narrow road of this unique original Koli( Fisherfolk) village in the heart of Mumbai city.The band members are wearing the typical red caps worn by the men folk of Koli fishing community while the women are dancing in their traditional Koli saree's .Don't miss viewing this annual traditional Koli festival .

"Narali Purnima " celebrations on Wednesday(30/8/2023)

Celebration of " Koli Holi Dahan  Festival" in Worli Koliwada village on Wednesday 12 March 2025.

One of the artistically
decorated " Betelnut Holi Tree"
with a fish theme of  a lobster.

"Horses for Course" and on Wednesday(12/3/2025) cycled to Worli Koliwada village to witness the  celebration of Holi Dahan Festival by the Koli fisherfolk community of Worli village.A cycle  is the best vehicle for sightseeing the narrow densely populated  alleyways and roads of Worli Koliwada village as even scooters and motorcycles find difficulty in manoeuvring through the village road.As for car's ,most of Worli Koliwada village is free of 4-wheeler traffic due to the extremely narrow road and pathways.Holika Dahan, also known as Holika Deepak or Chhoti Holi, marks the eve of the vibrant Holi festival.This ancient ritual celebrates the victory of good over evil, symbolized by the burning of an effigy of the mythical demoness Holika. Observed on the full moon night of the Phalgun month in the Hindu calendar, Holika Dahan is a significant precursor to Holi celebrated next day after burning of the effigy. The ritual commemorates Lord Vishnu's triumph over Holika, as recounted in Hindu mythology.Among the fishing community of Mumbai the " Holi Dahan Festival" is celebrated a day before the normal Holi Dahan which this year falls on Wednesday (12/3/2025) followed by Holi the next day.All over India among different Hindu communities Holi Dahan will be celebrated tomorrow , Thursday (13/3/2025) night with Holi the next day on Friday( 14/3/2025) which is also a public holiday.

Almost entire Koliwada village was decorated
for the " Holi Dahan" and Holi Festival.

Holi Festive decor along
the narrow main road
of Koliwada village. 

Was early at 2000 hrs and visited my house care-taker  Miss Sabina.Dias's residence at Amar Prem Chowk in Worli village.She and her entire family have been born and lived in this unique village since birth and thanks to Sabina as also the media that i got to learn about the unique traditional festivals celebrated in this unbelievable original fishing community village of  South Central Mumbai. Parked my cycle outside her 150 years old landlord " Mr Walter.Kinnys  bungalow  " Plot - 126 F Kinny" at " Amar Prem Chowk"  in which Sabina's parents  resided in a small section as tenants now inherited by her and family members ,one of the oldest original East Indian Catholic residence in Worli Koliwada village.Later strolled along the crowded packed narrow road that ultimately leads to landmark Worli Fort. .Was amazed at the number of different Holi tree's in different bylanes of tiny Worli Koliwada village. Kolis make a humanoid figure of Holika( Demoness) and deck her up in jewellery and sarees. She is then perched on top of a stick/ Betel nut ( Supari)tree  and beautiful rangolis are drawn around her with ingredients like coconut, betel leaves, uncooked rice, turmeric and others offered as part of the pooja.

Worli Koliwada village  has a large East Indian Catholic population among it's Koli Community whose mother tongue is Marathi language .East Indian Catholics are considered the original Christian Catholic inhabitants of Bombay now Mumbai having their own unique social customs regarding marriages and culinary specialities. The Bombay East Indian Association was founded on 26 May 1887 to advance the education, employment, rights and economic development of the East Indians.In Worli Koliwada akin to Bandra there are many crosses in various locales of the village." Sacred Heart Church" at Worli is the main parish church of the East Indian Catholics of Worli village.

The bylanes along the main narrow road of Worli Koliwada village. As usual political parties provide patronage to the " Holi Dahan Festival" in this heritage fishing village commune.

Shri Hanuman Temple built in 1954 seen under a glowing Full Moon. .The " Holi Effigy tree" with a flag on its tip erected for " Holi Dahan( Holi Bonfire)"  can be seen on the lawn in the building adjacent to this temple .Hanuman Temple  is situated on the narrow main road that leads to Worli Fort and Worli Koliwada village Lands End.From "Hanuman Temple" walking along this narrow road is the start of  " Holi Effigy tree" trunks erected  in various locales in the bylanes of this main road. As the night progressed this entire road was crowded with worshippers and revellers as also police .

Cultural celebrations were lined up in different sections of the village with live local brass bands at a few of these " Holi Mandals".At the " Vijay Mitra Mandal" locale  posed for a photograph with classic Koli dancer Shri Santosh. Worlikar who performed the Holi Koli festival dance of the common fisherfolk .

With ace Koli folk dancer Shri Santosh.Koli at "Vijay Mitra Mandal" which was   the main "Holi Dahan " venue in Worli Koliwada village.Later in the night this entire lawn was packed with the youth dancing to recorded music played over loudspeakers.See the video below..

It was dance and brass band as well a recorded music all over the tiny village commune .Entire unique Worli village was packed with revellers and worshippers.,a mega village carnival.

Worli village has a mix of Hindus and Catholic fisherfolk with Crosses and temples at various locales within the village.

Later in the night a procession of  Koli women attired in their splendid Koli sarees and carrying pots on their head walked in a straight line to the  different temple's within the tiny village   accompanied by a brass band .Finally at 2400 hrs midnight after a religious ritual around the "Holi tree effigy" the "Holi Dahan" was performed and the effigy ignited with a flame.  Visit Worli village once in your lifetime, especially during its unique festival celebrations  as it is unbelievable that such a village still exists  among the skyscrapers of the surrounding vicinity. .

The local Koli fisherfolk of Worli village belong mostly  to either Hindu or Christian( Catholic) religion.Marathi language is the local mother tongue and this tiny village resembling a Isthmus has numerous crosses and temples within the village.In this photo a " Holi Tree" is erected facing a Christian Catholic shrine.Harmony in religious diversity within this unique fisherfolk community of Mumbai.

A rare well preserved plush  bylane of Worli Koliwada with its unique Cottage houses with  the Betel nut " Holi Tree" decorated for the Holi Dahan Festival.

" Worli Koliwada Holi Dahan " Festival.Women in traditional Koli Attire with pot's on head  in a procession to the local temples accompanied by a Brass Band.

At exactly 2400 hrs midnight " Holika Dahan" is performed with religious rituals and later using a flame to torch  the Holi Tree effigy.

Wednesday(12/3/2025) : -  View of the plush  Mumbai skyscraper tower's from " Worli Fort" situated at the tip of Worli village.Plush ultra luxury building's commanding costliest real estate value in India let alone Mumbai.Sadly as can be seen in this photo the surrounding locale  around Worli Fort is filthy and labelled as slums.A unbelievable contrast of luxury skyscraper buildings just approximately 1-2 kilometers away from tiny Worli village which sadly in certain pockets resemble a common filthy  slum.

Worli Koliwada covers approximately 125 acres of land, with the core Koliwada area, Worli Fort and other surrounding unorganized developments accounting for 68 acres and the Coast Guard premises and Adarsh Nagar accounting for the rest. This area is in the very heart of one of Mumbai’s most lucrative commercial and residential property zones. Its potential for real estate development seems obvious with neighbouring Worli and Prabhadevi localities housing some of the costliest landmark buildings in India, let alone Mumbai.But,certain indisputable market realities have so far saved it from redevelopment into ultra plush luxury buildings. To begin with, Worli Fort is a heritage monument. Secondly, the Worli Koliwada area which is shaped in the form of a Isthmus falls in a Coastal Regulation Zone, as it is bound by sea from three sides. Thirdly, it is also a sensitive locality  from a Defence perspective, given that the Indian Navy has active operations in " I.N.S Trata ",the missile battery base tasked with coastal defense of states of Maharashtra and Gujarat. Will unique Worli Village withstand the commercial topographical changes that has engulfed entire Mumbai ? Change is permanent and future   unpredictable. As for me, feel privileged to have witnessed the unique festival celebrations of Worli village as also documenting my personal experiences for tourists and anthropologists.